Monday, April 15, 2013

The Iron Legacy of Margaret Thatcher


A few days ago, London's iconic Trafalgar Square was crowded with people from every corner of leftist Britain gathering to celebrate the death of Britain's infamous stateswoman, Margaret Thatcher. Whether you praise or abhor the basis for such a celebration, the occasion does truly signify the Thatcher legacy. Margaret Thatcher was a bold leader who dramatically changed the face of Britain and helped erode the face of Communist Europe. She was decisive, steadfast, and bold. But at the same time she was ruthless and unsympathetic to her opposition. Through her eyes, it was either her way, the way of freedom and privatization, or the way of totalitarianism and social decay, even if her way meant losing the jobs of thousands of workers and letting their children starve. 

To the many Britons who suffered under her policies, Thatcher was a tyrant who used their suffering to benefit politically. To these Britons, Thatcher showed a wanton disposition to their livelihood, much as a workhouse keeper would show to Oliver Twist. To these Britons, she was a leader that was more than willing to hand over state funds to fight a meaningless war in the Falklands than to help them put bread on the table. 

Margaret Thatcher left Britain better off economically, but politically she left a completely polarized political landscape, and much like their counterparts in America, the left leaning Labor Party abandoned leftist Britain for a more moderate alternative, thereby further infuriating the left. Today, Britons are more divided than ever, in particular over austerity measures which sparked responses in the form of  UK uncut and the Occupy Movement. 

Lady Thatcher's legacy differs sharply from that of her counterpart, President Ronald Reagan. While President Reagan was a bold conservative like her who dramatically changed his country and sought to challenge the Soviet Empire, he was able to develop a national narrative that included everyone. He didn't leave a good portion of Americans behind when considering how to approach policy. While his policies did benefit the wealthy far more than the rest of America, this didn't cause another group to suffer gratuitously. He was willing to compromise when necessary. In 1987 he increased taxes on the wealthy and closed loopholes, and in 1986 he granted amnesty for illegal immigrants. 

Reagan's narrative wasn't about liberals versus patriots or workers versus management. It was about Americans for America. Perhaps it was because Reagan got his training in Hollywood as opposed to a grocery store, but Reagan was able to communicate to all Americans far better than Thatcher was able to communicate to all Britons. As a result, following Reagan's death, no death parties were organized to commemorate the occasion.

At least politically, Thatcher's legacy matches President George W Bush's far more than Reagan's. The Bush Administration actively ignored its opposition which included scientists, clergymen, environmentalists, the UN, and budget experts. His message for America was if you don't support me, you are no better than the terrorists. The result was an America torn in two, an enraged left inspired by President Barack Obama to change the injustices born from the previous administration, and an extremist right that has declared war on progress and the process of government itself. Now the American political system is broken, and basic government functions such as making a national budget go ignored while irresponsible sequesters, set up to encourage action, fail to forge compromise. 

In reality, Margaret Thatcher probably wouldn't have been appalled by these signs of celebration following her death. To her, they would've been identical to her expereince at 10 Downings Street. Her reign was marked by massive public protests, anti establishment punk rock music, and riots, She would probably take comfort in this image of death as her ultimate triumph. While the brutes carry on with they banners spewing hateful rhetoric such as "Ding Dong the Bitch is Dead," her face retains its iron exterior. That which is unchanged and unmoved. 

China's Loss of Face: North Korea


Over the past few weeks, North Korea's spat of belligerence towards South Korea, the US, and its allies has made the American populace nervous. The American media has been riddled with stories  with questions that can not be answered with certainty. Is this new rhetoric the product of an inexperienced and unpredictable new North Korean leader? Will war break out over the Korean Peninsula? And most importantly, will North Korea attempt to strike the US with a nuclear weapon? In truth the threat from North Korea, while tangible, is far from meeting reality. North Korea is like any other county. It desires respect from the global community, and will take action when it sees necessary. 

Unfortunately for North Korea, due to its isolated diplomatic position, it can only rely on sticks as opposed to carrots. This is merely a presentation from a regime desperate for international legitimacy. Who knows. Maybe Kim Jong Un is seeking to steal the spotlight from the South's cultural sensation Gangnam Style. There is only question that truly matters in the media circus over this event. What does China think?

China is arguably North Korea's only ally. The two countries share an ideological (albeit artificial on the Chinese side) tie. Both nations are also bound together due to the Cold War experience. Apart from the bond of Communist heritage, both nations have the same geopolitical objective; keep the US out of the region, and the Chinese leadership is quick to discern that North Korean sabor rattling produces the very opposite trend.

Over the past few years, China has noted a gradual increase of American presence in the region. President Obama's Asia pivot has rendered Chinese American relations awkward. While President Obama has framed this move as economic and military engagement with Asia, in particular China, Chinese officials perceive this engagement as a hidden agenda to diplomatically and militarily encircle China. North Korea's recent threat of a nuclear launch in the near future has understandably caused alarm on the American side of the Pacific. In the midst of such uncertainty, Secretary of State Chuck Hagel has recently announced missile deployments to the US territory of Guam. This doesn't please the Chinese, who desire an Asia with minimal US intervention. The Chinese government recognizes that North Korean belligerence leads to a stronger American military presence, but North Korea sees this as a away to show the world it means business. Obviously there is a conflict of interest.

To the dismay of Beijing, newly elected conservative governments in Tokyo and Seoul have  welcomed a stronger US military presence in the Asia Pacific. It's not surprising that shortly following the announcement of the Asia pivot initiative, old territorial disputes in the East and South China Seas began to flare up between China and Japan, Vietnam, and the Philippines. Since I have been in China, a major diplomatic crisis opened up over the Diaoyu Islands causing protests in several Chinese cities, some of which violently attacked Japanese businesses and Chinese owned Japanese eateries. Given the amount of diplomatic problems that China has to deal with already, the last thing China wants is war to erupt over the Korean peninsula. 

But most importantly, North Korea's threat of war undermines the role that China perceives of itself in Asia. Throughout its long history, China has served as the Middle Kingdom, the center of culture, economic growth, and political stability in Asia. After 150 years of humiliation and failure, the Middle Kingdom has returned to Asia. China is now the largest economic force in the region, and its wealth has trickled down to poorer Asian countries thereby creating modern tributary states. Laos and Cambodia in particular fit this description. In some ways, China's relationship with North Korea reflects that of a tributary state, a buffer state that answers to the higher authority of Beijing and pays tribute in the form of diplomatic support. However, North Korea's sudden threat of war appears to reverse the relationship. Despite Beijing's desire for a peaceful harmonious region, North Korea will act with autonomy to get what it wants. In doing so, North Korea has made China diplomatically lose face. In many ways, North Korea's actions are as much a message to China as it is to America. 

Still, despite China's disapproval of North Korea's belligerence, it will continue to respond mildly, stating that China simply supports a peaceful non-nuclear Korean peninsula. This fits the pattern of China's 5 Principles of Peaceful Coexistence, which stresses sovereignty over intervention and mutual respect over moral criticism. One thing is certain, the Chinese want to avoid an armed conflict sparked by North Korea as much as we do. Allowing such an event to conspire would be the biggest loss of face since the 1842 Opium Wars. 

Friday, March 29, 2013

Remembering FDR As the Founder of Modern American Liberalism


These days, a Republican campaign or CPAC speech isn't complete without a quote by President Ronald Reagan or a self claimed certainty that Ronald Reagan would believe or do X Y and Z. Some Republicans have suggested the former actor turned politician should be placed on currency, public building names, and be given his own monument. In fact, sometimes Democrats are tempted to quote Ronald Reagan and place the former conservative warrior's legacy on their side of the aisle. 

It's understandable why Republicans want to Reaganfy everything in their rhetoric and stage presence. Reagan represents the modern Republican party far more than Lincoln, Teddy, and even Ike and Dick. Furthermore, most Americans perceive Reagan as a victorious national hero, a bold leader, and a gifted statesman unlike the most recent Republican president who, it appears, can't be disposed in the dustbin of history fast enough. But still, Reagan only represents half the narrative of the American political spectrum. 

Another great president's ideas, which had previously been rejected due to the Reagan Revolution, are making a comeback, but without any recognition. President Franklin Roosevelt made modern America possible, and led the country through its most difficult societal transition, the Great Depression. It was following this transition that the era of Big Government began. But this era meant far more than just that. It was an era where Americans were called by their government to help their country and their neighbors in a time of desperation. It was a time where the concept of "public" was equally valued to that of "individual." The rise of the John Does had begun so that America could continue to build for a better tomorrow.

 It's time to resurrect FDR and establish him as the true ideological foil to Reagan. Democrats should not be afraid to be bold and pontificate the name and ideals of President Roosevelt, a president who laid the foundations for modern liberalism. FDR's vision of America is dramatically different to Reagan's vision, and this ideological gap warrants validity and recognition for both sides. Following the Reagan years, a shadow has been cast over the Roosevelt legacy which must now be removed. His ideas and vision are as useful for America's present as they were for America's past.

Today we face a similar crisis, and Roosevelt's ideas are being re-articulated by President Obama and other Democratic leaders. Like Obama, FDR entered office during a period of economic turmoil and high unemployment. During his first term, Roosevelt hardly got any progress done, but he did inspire Americans with hope and encouraged strength through unity during the dark times of the 1930s. Despite all the odds of widespread poverty and political tyranny spreading in Europe and Asia, FDR convinced Americans that a better day was on the horizon. 

In order to preempt a communist revolution in America, FDR put idle hands to work by commissioning an array of new government agencies that would oversee public works projects. He had Americans design and build roads, bridges and lodges in the nation's great national parks for future leisure activities. He employed artists by having them create sculptures and murals for new public buildings and city centers. He raised taxes significantly on the rich to help ensure the survival of Middle Class. Under his administration, the foundation of the modern entitlement system, Social Security, was implemented.  

Most importantly, FDR convinced Americans that government could be used to make society better to the benefit of all Americans. He espoused a national narrative, that the government was a physical representation of the country itself, and that it should be cherished as such. This wasn't a form of oppressive statism seen in other societies during that time (Nazi Germany, the USSR, fascist Italy and Spain). This was the answer to America's enemies, including the political threats from outside and the economic and social threats from within. It was a call to arms. From his wheelchair nestled softly next to the fire place, FDR appeared as a grandfather figure, bringing America constructive advice for how to overcome the trials and tribulations of the Great Depression. 

His America called for an end to the tyrannies of want and fear, a message we desperately need to today. We live  in a nation of massive income inequality, a nation that expects the majority of its citizens to buy expensive services and products such as a car, a house, health insurance, and a college education all of which cannot be purchased without accumulating a liberal amount of credit card debt. Our student loans and home mortgages have enslaved the majority of Americans into a game of chance played by the elite and wealthy minority. Americans live by the tyrannies of want when they watch television, go shopping, drive down the street and even use the internet as they are bombarded by a title wave of advertisements and billboards. 

The tyranny of fear has hovered over Americans since the infamous day of 9/11 2001. We are a nation flailing at the edge of hysteria. Our fears are provoked further by a fanatical media more interested in ratings than truth. Behind our backs, politicians have slipped in Homeland Security polices such as the Patriot Act which allow our actions to be surveyed by a paranoid government that doesn't seek to better society but encourage submission. 

These are the tyrannies that oppress Americans today, not the tyrannies of social welfare, taxation, and public spending, which are the basic functions of any government evil or benign. This is exactly why FDR's immortal words must be repeated by the American left. "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself." During President Obama's inauguration, he tried to reset the narrative made by Reagan that the government is always the problem. In doing so, he expressed that the government can take a positive role in society if it chooses to function efficiently. This exactly the message that was projected by FDR 80 years ago, and it is time to make it known by speaking his quotes and his ideas. In order to have a strong Democratic party, we must embrace Roosevelt, the triumphant leader of Liberal America.

Chinese Civilization's Capitalist Characteristics


Today I was struck by a sudden anomaly at my school. I noticed that students were carrying large boxes of school supplies in my class. When I asked a student if these were for a science project they said no. In fact, these were for a sale that students were participating in. A collective of small desks were set up underneath the building of my classroom to serve as stands for students to sell and trade their products on a market exchange. How novel I thought. An educational activity for students to practice the arts of capitalism on a micro scale. 

The surprise wasn't warranted by capitalism practiced in China alone. You don't have to be a China expert nowadays to know that China is not a communist country. The current economic doctrine practiced by Beijing is state capitalism, and on a massive scale. Industrial Revolution Era skies, jungles of construction cranes, and massive shopping centers demonstrate that China is a giant capitalist machine pumping out enough exports for 5 Americas to consume. But still, despite China's new face, it is surprising that Chinese citizens at such a young age would be permitted (perhaps mandated) to practice such activities in an educational setting managed by communist party members. 

However, if you really think about the dynamics of money and capital in Chinese culture, it isn't that difficult to discover a bridge to this conclusion. Chinese society is inherently capitalist by nature. You don't need to go to a shopping mall, stock exchange, McDonalds or Starbucks to see that. In fact, the best place to see Chinese capitalism in action is a local agriculture or seafood market. Such locations not only provide a cacophony of sounds, smells, and textures but also an opportunity to see Chinese capitalism at its finest. Numerous food stands will sell the same products (egg fried rice, dumplings, soup, BBQ kabobs) at a comparable price. The same goes for raw agricultural products from eggplants to egg-whites, from leaks to lichees, and from fish to chickens. Stand owners shout out the prices of their products to get the attention of fickle consumers. These are noisy and competitive environments, ripe for bargaining and business exchanges. 

One unique experience in China is using improvised illegal public transportation, aka tuk tuk like motorized carts called San Lun Ches (three wheeled cars). These guys will always rip us white folk off, but by cheating us, I really mean charging people psychologically acceptable prices. For instance, a destination a mile or two away will cost around 30 cents for the average Chinese, but someone with my skin color will be offered the same ride for about $1. For the average ignorant westerner, the price comparable to a ride in the US sounds like a bargain, but for those who know better it's not. Nonetheless, these drivers are figuring their prices with a psychological cost benefit analysis. White guys are rich, so they probably will be willing to pay a higher price because they'll think they are getting a bargain anyways. Some people might find this racist, but thats a capitalist mindset if I've ever seen one. The fact that the Chinese business perspective is so capable and likely to cheat customers reveals an inherit capitalist dogma within Chinese culture itself. 

The value of wealth and ownership extends to personal relationships as well, which is the very foundation of Chinese society. For instance, frequent customers are always treated with a sense of seniority at any establishment. In the pursuit of marriage, Chinese in-laws will  not consent to the marriage of their daughter unless the lucky bachelor owns property (aka an apartment), has a well paying job, and sometimes even a car. During festivals such as the Spring Festival (New Year), Chinese people will pray to particular deities for good fortune for the coming year. 

In fact, it's these relationships that have made China's ability to dominate the East Asian economic zone possible. Chinese communities have developed in the Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, and other Asian nations over hundreds of years. Singapore itself is the product of overseas Chinese immigration and British imperialism. Chinese communities in these countries are condensed, closed and exclusive and it is these communities that tend to dominate the economy of these countries. 

Overseas Chinese are noticeably richer than the local majorities in these countries. Even in the US, overseas Chinese communities tend to be economically successful and Chinatowns usually are environments where economic activity is vibrant and striking. Following China's turn towards capitalism in 1978, family relationships were extended from the mainland to overseas Chinese communities in order to advance foreign trade opportunities. Today Asia is covered by an expansive bamboo network of Chinese Guanxi (relationships) which give China an advantage in opening up new markets and business opportunities especially in Southeast Asia. In fact, some politicians in Southeast Asia, such as the exiled former Prime Minister Thaksin of Thailand, are ethnically half Chinese. The Chinese ability to succeed in a capitalist economy have made the Chinese people business leaders in almost every country in Asia. 

Now I don't want my readers to get the impression that Chinese culture is a perfect example of Adam Smith's ideal free market. China has adopted a state capitalist model for a reason. Chinese society has developed under the management of a large and draconian bureaucratic state for most of it's history. Chinese cities such as Chang'An and Hangzhou were dominated by sophisticated public infrastructure and managed by complicated legal codes dictating the limits of trade and commerce. China's modern Communist System continued a long tradition of authoritative governance that values unity and stability over freedom of thought and action. In fact, the Presidency of China, the structure of the Politburo and the formality of official party ceremonies appear to be simply a modern adaptation of the traditional imperial court of the Middle Kingdom. 

Still, despite China's authoritative civic culture, the culture of Chinese everyday life is  capitalist by nature, and the Cultural Revolution and Great Leap Forward don't appear to have changed that. 

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Hey Teacher Leave Them Kids Alone: Another Brick in the Great Wall of China


Every morning when I wake up at Song Gang Middle School, my ears are greeted by the sounds of music playing during the flag raising ceremony. The music contains an innate military quality, with a strong rhythm and loud blaring horns. Meanwhile students have there daily athletic exercises which seem more like Marine drills and afterwards make a lap around campus. By the time I get to my classroom, it is evident that school life in China is not like it is in America. Besides the books, homework, and classrooms everything else in the experience renders school life unrecognizable. At Song Gang Middle School, every student is treated like a juvenile. It is the quintessential corrupt prison school.

Song Gang Middle School is unique for its very diverse student body. A large portion of the senior high school classes are from the Xinjiang Autonomous region in China's Northwest. For these students, life is particularly hard. Not only are Xinjiang students trapped in an isolated school in a city thousands of miles away from home, but they are also looked upon as different from the rest of the student body due to their ethnicity. The administration institutionalizes this isolation by segregating the Xinjiang students into separate classes, dormitories, and even cafeterias. The reason why they must eat in a separate cafeteria is because they have a diet that is strictly dictated by religion (no pork). But nonetheless, they don't really have a choice to eat in another location, thus further isolating them from the rest of the student body.

Furthermore, during the weekends Han Chinese students have the ability to go home and visit their parents. The Xinjiang students obviously don't have this luxury. In fact, their ability to leave the school itself for leisure is strictly regulated and rationed. According to school policy, female and male students are granted separate weekends to leave the school. Therefore, the ability to leave the school gates is only granted once every two weeks for these students. However, it's not like they have much time to leave school anyways. Students have class 6 days a week and during week days class starts at 7:40 am and ends at 10:00 PM  after the last study hall. 

Song Gang's situation is only one example under the bigger picture that is the Chinese education system. Children in China are only guaranteed public education until the end of junior high school. To pursue their education further, students must pass a rigorous exam called the Zhong Kao which is the sole determining factor in their eligibility for a high school education. If they don't pass the Zhong Kao, these kids will start their career as a working class hero at age 14 or 15. 

But the fun isn't over yet. After three years of high school (four for Xinjiang students), high school students will take another exam called the Gao Kao which is far more difficult and important. It is the outcome of this exam that determines not just whether a student can go to college but what colleges they can apply for, and the competition is every high school student in China. The odds aren't very good for the average Chinese student, whose high school experience is completely dominated by practice examinations and lessons geared towards passing the exam. A whole 3 years of studying will culminate in one several hour exam, and it's that flimsy piece of paper that will dictate the career, status, and quality of life for these students; and Americans think the SAT is stressful! The response to this oppressive education environment is a widespread feeling of depression and helplessness, which results in an obedient populous with no ability to think for themselves. 

Such a system benefits from the ability to exceed in math, science, and test taking ability. But it completely eliminates the blossoming spirit of the Chinese imagination, a spirit which China desperately needs to combat the challenges of economic development and social changes from massive urbanization and mass consumerism. By the time they break out of this brutal system, I'm sure Chinese college students feel a sense of relief. But I also believe they feel a sense of apathy towards their society. They have been treated like a soldier for their whole life with nothing to believe in but grades and tests, unlike a real soldier which at least has the love of country and camaraderie to hold on to. 

No wonder China is the country of copies and opposed to patents. Such a system scares away the few that have critical thinking skills which lead to creativity and innovation. Every week, I talk to one Xinjiang student who is exceptionally intelligent for his age. He will take the Gao Kao this year, but he wants to make sure he doesn't go to college in China. He has big dreams to go to MIT in Boston, but any American college or university with a physics program will do. As long as it gets him out of China. It's students like him that can find the solutions to China's numerous problems, and it is these students that the Chinese education is weeding out by not fostering creativity and mental autonomy. As for the rest of the students at Song Gang Middle School, in my humble opinion, they are all just bricks in the Great Wall of China's schools. 

Monday, February 25, 2013

The Immortality of Gangnam Style


It's been roughly 5 months since the PSY's one hit wonder "Gangnam Style" blazed the airways like a meteor over Russia. In fact, one hit wonder is putting it mildly, it's more like a one hit atomic drone strike. Despite PSY's lack of appreciation at the 2013 Grammy Awards, his song Gangnam Style will be what I remember as the defining song of 2012. Perhaps the song's popular appeal has waned in the states, but across the entire continent of Asia, the Gangnam style craze is still going on..and on…and on. 

I would argue that Gangnam Style is the most culturally defining pop song since Nirvana's Smell's Like Teen Spirit, at least for a good 3rd of the world's population. Every day when I walk to the grocery store, I hear the din of "Hey Sexy Lady!" emitted from the internet connected sound system. When I ask the cashier why the same song is repeated daily (and I assume multiple times daily) she says the children like it. By children she means 2-5 year old toddlers. When I teach class and slip in a picture of PSY performing some of his signature dance moves, the whole class erupts in laughter and pleasure. I hear it again at the subway station as I am passing a flamboyant female accessory store. There it is again on my driver's radio during my ride to Chinese class. 

The people of China, young and old, love Gangnam Style. It's not even about the lyrics or the subject matter. The song itself is a critique on the lavish style of Seoul, Korea's wealthy neighborhoods on the south side of the Han River, hence Gangnam (south of the river) Style. It's a social message that sounds more like Wood Guffery or John Lennon as opposed to pop icons such as Michael Jackson and Justin Bieber. And yet the Chinese keep listening and dancing. Why? 

And the crazy thing is, IT'S NOT JUST CHINA!! In his native South Korea, PSY is already a favorite son. There is even a video of him teaching UN Secretary General Ban Kai Moon how to do the horse dance from the music video. In the Philippines I met some friends in a slum neighborhood who invited me to Salsa Dance with them. After a few Salsa rounds, they decided to switch the music to fit a general party theme. What is played first? Gangnam Style. In Malaysia I saw many funny and inappropriate T shirts, but after coming across a Gangnam Style shirt, I couldn't resist the purchase. During Chinese New Year when I visited my girlfriend's  Chinese/Singaporean family in Indonesia, her cousin played me a Chinese New Year's version of Gangnam Style which served as a free online gift card to send family and friends. Upon our return to Shenzhen, my friend Kevin told me that on his vacation, when he was riding is bike in the middle of nowhere Cambodia, he came across a house built on stilts with five large speakers. What were the owners blasting from those speakers to kingdom come? Gangnam Style. The song is unavoidable in Asia. It's become a legitimate part of the landscape, blending in with the sights of crowded streets and unbearable traffic, the sounds of car horns and sizzling grills, the smells of raw sewage and Chou Dofu. It's all glazed over with a little Gangnam Style. 

I can't say for sure why Gangnam Style has had such a lingering effect in Asia. Perhaps the antics of the song's video are too irresistible not to play on repeat for over a half year period. Perhaps the song's beats generate the desire to move and the energy to work for one's daily bread and bed. Perhaps the song's lyrics really do reflect the selfishness and ridiculousness of the times in a contemporary Asia on a collision course towards consumer society. Or perhaps it's out of a sense of pride that a fellow Asian has made it to the big time, knocking Justin Bieber off his Youtube throne and rising to the heights of the Pop Music Pantheon with Michael Jackson, Elton John, Lady Gaga, and Green Day. Whatever the case, PSY has accomplished a great feat not seen every year. He has succeed in shaping the popular culture of an entire generation in the East Asian region. This soft spoken Korean had a song that was played in cyberspace more than  We Are Young, Call Me Baby, or any of that Bieber shit. He exploded on he world stage and left behind a pop culture legacy, and he did it all with just one song. Some songs are passing fads, but others will truly remain immortal. 

Friday, February 22, 2013

Malaysia: A Model for Asia?




Given its geographical location, Malaysia was bound to be a land of diversity. Situated along the trade route choke point known as the Straits of Melaka, peninsular Malaysia has benefited and suffered from its strategic location. During the 12th to 14th Centuries, a powerful sultanate established along the shoreline named Melaka obtained an impressive amount of wealth and contact from far away kingdoms such as Ming China, the island kingdoms in Java and Bali, the Arab World, and the Kingdom of Siam. It is telling that one of the highest ranked officials in the administration of the Melaka sultanate was the Harbor Master.

Eventually the Sultan was overthrown by the Portuguese who were later overtaken by the Dutch who were finally replaced by the dominion of the British Empire. Such European imperial transitions were common in this area of the world, of which only Siam (modern day Thailand) remained immune. This area of the world was a strategic jackpot for imperial powers, since these narrow straits provided the most direct route between India and China, the two abundant sources of products and consumer goods from the Orient. In fact, looking at the old sea trade routes on the map reveals a striking similarity to strategic interests of the US grand strategy to this day. 

Under its imperial occupation, Malaysia developed profitable industries in tin, rubber, coffee, and coconut oil. But more importantly, Malaysia organically developed large foreign communities of Arabs, Indians, and Chinese. Upon arrival to to Malaysia, the sight of ethnic diversity was not only evident but striking. Malay culture was so shaped by Chinese, Indian, and Arab communities that the image of an ethic tossed salad became the country's very identity. 

The first place I stayed was in the former trade center that had put Malaysia on the map, Melaka. The street of my hostel was a narrow road called Tukang Emas Street. Within a mile of this stretch of concrete there was a Mosque, a Hindu Temple, a Chinese temple (including Buddhist and Taoist influences), an Episcopal Church, and a Sikh Temple. Tukang Emas was adjacent to another road called Jonker Street, which sat at the heart of Melaka's historical Chinatown. Across Melaka's small river could be heard the sounds of Bollywood music being blasted from music/movie shops in Little India. Within a short walk down the river side I came across the old Dutch quarter complete with the old Red Brick Presbyterian  Church, a windmill, and a Hard Rock Cafe. Colonial and Modern crossroads had left a colorful mosaic on the face of the city of Melaka. It was a town of minarets and masks, of cafes and curries, of Hindus and hymns, and of Durians  and Dutch pastries.

Whats more, the people, regardless of color, creed, cross or crescent were hospitable and friendly. To give an example, my girlfriend and I were invited to eat a vegetarian meal at the Sikh Temple. We appeared as obvious tourists, walking into the donation ceremony very awkwardly. But despite this  naivety, the religious community welcomed us into their house of worship without turning an eye of annoyance or an appearance of regret. It was obvious that they wanted us there despite our foreign appearance. Of course, being foreign was as applicable to them as it was to us, seeing that they were Indian Malaysian citizens. 

Our next stop was the capital of Malaysia Kuala Lumpur. KL differed from any other Southeast Asian capital I have visited, and had significantly diverged from the image of the dirty and vagrant filled streets of Manila, Philippines. KL's skyline resembled that of Shanghai's, Tokyo's or Taipei's with glittering monuments of Asian modernity that retained the right to ascetic pleasure in the art of structural pragmatism. The center piece landmark of the city is KL's Petronas Towers, headquarters of Malaysia's largest state owned natural gas and oil company. Upon their completion, these towers were the tallest buildings in the world surpassing the Sears Tower in Chicago. They were overtaken by Taipei 101 in 2004. While modern in appearance, the towers had a visual quality similar to Hindu temples with a beehive-esque stupa at the top of each tower. The lobbies of each tower contained Islamic influences with a geometric circular ceiling with perfectly designed linear ripples echoing from the center glazed with a metallic material as a nod to the contemporary. 
Just like Melaka, the city was teaming with diverse religious establishments, although here Mosques outnumbered all others. The main mosque in the city was the National Mosque, open for viewing for visitors of all faiths. Built in the 1960s, the mosque was incredibly modern. Unlike the round features commonly found in mosque architecture, this mosque was dominated by sharp linear designs. It appeared to me that the mosque's design was as much a recognition of the  progress Malaysia had made in the transition from colonialism to modernity as an attribution to the Muslim world's academic contributions to the study of geometry and algebra. The outer courtyard contained a forest of columns neatly lined in harmony with the buildings centerpiece, a magnificent blue and turquoise shell defined by multiple corners and crevices colliding on one point at the top, forming a unique rounded triangle. The minaret was one tall and thin white tower with a sharp pointed roof that resembled a church steeple. Truly a remarkable structure that reflected the face of a city that valued religion and progress equally, almost as if one was incapable without the other.

Across town there was another religious sight, the scared Batu Caves, a holy sight for Hindus celebrating the family of Shiva and Pavarti. Built in the late 19th century, these caves contained numerous colorful statues of different figures in the Hindu pantheon as well as a large population of monkeys scavenging amongst the trash and seeking donations from naive tourists. Yet another example of the religious diversity that shapes the social landscape of Malaysia. 

The Batu Caves also serve as a reminder of the strong presence of nature in the city of KL. KL had numerous large scale and well managed parks, including an eco rainforest preserve located in the center of the city in the shadow of KL's tallest freestanding tower. Silver Tailed Monkeys can be frequently spotted in this area as well, mischievously trying to dash into a cafe or restaurant for a meal without compensation. There is an area of town that has a Banyan Tree reserve as well. But KL's most impressive green area is Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park. This park contains the world's largest Bird Aviary, a free roaming deer park, the Royal Botanical Gardens and a lake front for leisure. Just walking through the park makes you forget that you are in a capital city. There are also plenty of natural parklands such as rain forests, wetlands, and coastal habitats within a few hours dry of the city.

Like Melaka, KL had a thriving market in the center of China town where one can sample Chinese, Indian, and Malaysian cuisine. There is also a large and prosperous Little India that was within walking distance of my hostel. The hostel itself was administered by a Chinese man and an Indian man named Ballah. The multicultural makeup of Malay society could be seen everywhere, especially its transportation systems. A ride on the KL Metro was like going to the UN, with people in traditional Indian Saris, Muslim caps, headscarfs, and modern global styles of clothing. It all seemed perfunctory by the end of it. 

Malaysia was a lot like China, a diverse country with multiple ethnicities, resulting in mutual tolerance. However, unlike China, Malaysia was very clean and for the most part economically equal. I saw only two beggars on the street during my 4 days in KL, and none in Melaka. The skies in KL were consistently clear without the heavy haze that usually fits the stereotype of most Asian cities. Malaysia transportation infrastructure seemed more like Japan's than China's. It was clean, concise, and ordered. The metro was rarely crowded and more strictly regulated. The taxi system for entering the city even had customers register with a taxi administrator to ensure that no one was cheated. By the end of my stay there, I thought that Malaysia could serve as a model for Asia. A land of tolerance, with a clean environment, reliable infrastructure, a drive towards progress, and altogether a recipe for success.